Surrounded by forestland in central India and housing not more than 3,000 residents, this tiny little village called Khajuraho has become quite the tourist destination. It‚s famous the world over for its architecture, but more so for the erotic sculpture found inside its exquisitely stoned-carved ancient medieval temples. Hundreds of thousands flock to envisage this immortal saga of art and culture engraved in stone a millennia ago by the "Shilpis" craftsmen.
It all began a century past, when people took great interest in the sculptures in Khajuraho. Their inaccessibility to do their study and their regular travel to the site being impossible; slowly, over the years, roads were laid, facilities provided, and luxury hotels built, and the resurrection of Khajuraho thus began.
Khajuraho is actually a small fascinating modest village with a quaint rural ambience and a rich cultural heritage. It's located in the Chhatarpur district in Madhya Pradesh, aproxialmately 385 miles south east of India‚s capital, Delhi. From here, one can see the outcrops of the Vindyan Range. And the River Ken that wriggles along the outskirts of Khajuraho, flows northwards to meet the River Ganga.
Today the village boasts restaurants and bars, hotels, and souvenir shops. The little peddlers here, who peddle their wares that range from handicrafts to mineral water, easily switch from Spanish to French to German in rapid succession as signboards are posted in various languages for the convenience of tourists.
Khajuraho. Now this still remains an enigma, and it invokes the mind and fires the imagination with a billion unanswered questions about the mystery behind this temple city. What is the significance of its temples? How did they fit in the ancient past? Why were temples used as an art gallery? If there ever was a kingdom, where are the remains of their grand palaces? Why is it that only temples have been discovered? Were these temples religious in nature? If so, how does one justify the presence of their erotic sculptures? For years, art historians have sought answers, but their attempts have yielded no result. Reason being, there are no records to reveal the purpose for building these temples.
History has it that the temples in Khajuraho are more than one thousand years old and were built by the Chandela Rajputs. The spate of temple-building began in the middle of the 9th century and continued till the early 12th century. And by the time the last temple was completed, the Chandela dynasty had sunk into oblivion. And of the 85 temples believed to have been built here, only 20 have survived and are in splendid condition; while others have given way to the ravages of time and nature.
One can only imagine the skills of thousands of sculptors, architects and masons that would have toiled at each one of them. They not only testify to the mastery of the craftsman, but also to the extraordinary breadth of vision of the Chandela Rajputs under whose reign these temples were constructed.
Ancient dynasties are often covered in a veil of mystery, largely due to lack of written records. The creators of Khajuraho claimed descent from the moon. Thus myth and legend weaved their way into the history of Khajuraho‚s origin and their reign. And when a dynasty leaves a legacy such as that of Khajuraho temples, with the mix of the religious and the sensuous, it is woven with brighter threads, making the accompanying legends more colorful.
Now let us see what the legends have to say about the Temples of Love! Khajuraho evidently derives its name from Œkhajura‚ meaning date palm, which grows freely in the area, and also perhaps because there were two golden Œkhajura‚ trees on a carved gate. If the legend is to be believed, Khajuraho owes its existence to an enchanting maiden named Hemvati. Hemavati, the beautiful young daughter of a Brahmin priest was seduced by the moon god while bathing in a lotus-filled pond. The child born of this union between a mortal and a god was a son, Chandravarman. Distressed, she sought refuge in the dense forest of central India. The boy grew up and founded the great Chandela dynasty. And at his mother‚s request, he built 85 glorious temples with lakes and gardens at Khajuraho that would reveal human passions, and in doing so bring about a realization of the emptiness of human desire.
There is yet another theory about the erotica of Khajuraho having a specific purpose. In those days, boys lived in hermitages as Œbrahmacharis‚ until they attained manhood. The only way they could prepare themselves for the worldly role of Œhouseholder‚ was through the study of these sculptures and the earthly passions depicted!
Whatever the myth and legend attached to Khajuraho, the temples here are the most illustrious manifestations of Indian architecture. They represent religiosity, patronage, artistic genius and aesthetic sensibility all in synchronicity. As a result, Khajuraho draws travelers, historians, archeologists, art lovers, and lovers alike, from far and near who come to admire the beauty of the abundance of sculptures that decorate its interiors.
Unlike other temple complexes in India, the temples of Khajuraho are rather peculiar to their times. They have no enclosure wall surrounding them, and each of them is on a high and solid raised masonry platform. The temple openings face East with lavishly carved archways. Their interior ceilings are carved with geometrical and floral designs. Their roofs are a series of graded peaks that look like a mountain range and may possibly be representing the possibility of higher levels of spiritual attainment.
The erotic scenes in the temples represent a relatively small part of the carvings but sensuous eroticism prevails throughout the sculptures. The walls have depiction of numerous deities, their attendants, celestial maidens in sensuous positions and provocative postures, embracing couples with some of them in erotic sexual positions, dancers and musicians and couples engaged in various refinements of courtly love. But most of the images are all celestial beauties, and if the temples of Khajuraho are said to have a theme, it is woman. WOMAN - a celebration of woman and her myriad moods and facets - applying kohl to her eyes, brushing her hair, dancing, playing with her child, writing letters. WOMAN - innocent, coquettish, smiling, infinitely beautiful and seductive. All depicted in great detail, sharply etched, and sculpted with great artistry.
It is believed that one temple here alone sports more than six hundred and fifty such sculptures ranging from sensual and warm depictions of sexual activity. Some of these much-famed sexual postures are said to follow the Kama Sutra, the ancient Indian manual to the art of making love.
Khajuraho has been a beautiful scenic backdrop for many Bollywood movies as well as cultural festivals highlighting various classical dances of India. Every year from the 25th of February to the 2nd of March, the Khajuraho dance festival is held in the open-air auditorium in front of the Chitragupta Temple. This dance festival, born in 2002, has already become legendary with classical dance performances presented in a dreamlike setting of splendidly illuminated temples.
Allow yourself to be mesmerised by India's unique gift of love to the world, Khajuraho.
How to get there?
By Air
Khajuraho has an airport that is linked with daily services from Delhi, Agra and Varanasi.
By Rail
There is no direct train to Khajuraho. The nearest railheads are Mahoba (64 km) and Harpalpur (94 km). Jhansi (175 km) and Satna (117 km) are convenient railheads for visitors from Delhi, Mumbai, Calcutta, Chennai, Agra and Varanasi.
By Road
Direct buses are available from Jhansi, Satna, Harpalpur, Agra, Gwalior, Bhopal, Indore, Chattarpur, Jabalpur.
When To Get There?
Best season is from September to March when one can also see the cultural festival.
Around the Area
Ajaygarh Fort is about 80 km from Khajuraho and is an old fort, built at a height of 688 metres.
Benisagar Lake about 11 km from Khajuraho is a picnic spot and a dam of the Khudar river. Ideal for boating and angling.
Dhubela Museum is about 64 km from Khajuraho and is located in an old fort, on the Jhansi-Khajuraho road. It houses the personal effects of Chhatrasal and other Bundela rulers.
Kalinjar Fort is 100 km from Khajuraho and is located on the Vindhya range. It is 38 km away from the Atarra Railway station. It was built during the Gupta period and captured by Shri Yashovarman, the Chandela king, in the 10th century.
Pandav Waterfall is about 30 km from Khajuraho and is on River Ken. The Pandavas of the Mahabharata are believed to have spent a part of their exile here.
Panna is about 45 km from Khajuraho and is a historic town and capital of the Bundela kingdom.
Panna Diamond Mines is about 56 km from Khajuraho and is India‚s only diamond mine.
Panna National Park is 40 km from Khajuraho and is spread over 546 sq. km along the east bank of the River Ken. Dense forest covers, while rocky gorges and waterfalls make for ideal wildlife watching.
Rajgarh Palace, nestled at the foot of the Manjyagarh hills, is 25 km from Khajuraho and is more than 150 years old.
